Travel report by Onno on backpacking with whale safari in Iceland

“There is no better place to experience the forces of nature than Iceland. This country with its rugged, untouched nature makes you feel how insignificant you are in the face of the elements. The weather, the landscape, the flora and fauna have free rein and affect you and your equipment in every possible way. During our trip, this became all too clear”. Guide Onno from Arctic Adventure takes you to Iceland in this blog and reports on the Force of Nature trek. What will you encounter along the way and how will you deal with these elements? It will be an exciting and fantastic adventure in the rugged landscape of the Land of Fire and Ice.

On to ice caps and lava

Early Monday morning we were ready at Rotterdam Airport for the three-hour flight to Akureyri. Everyone carried a thick backpack with camping gear and some extra clothes, because well, in Iceland you have to be prepared for anything. From Arctic Adventure, we got five pounds of food per person on top of that and some group materials. I felt a healthy excitement among the group and the atmosphere was good. This would be an unforgettable trip.

The flight was mostly over water and it wasn’t until the last hour that we saw Iceland looming. The clear weather allowed us to see the ice sheet and the transatlantic rift that divides Iceland in two. This was where we would take a look for the next week. An hour later (Iceland is in a different time zone) we disembarked in the north of the country after a beautiful landing over the fjord. The first thing noticed was the lack of trees, which had once been cut down by residents and never returned.

The first day was devoted to the natural forces of the sea. After visiting the mighty Godafoss waterfall, the cab drove us to Husavik, Iceland’s oldest town. The nice weather allowed us to enjoy lunch outside on the terrace before we got on the boat. The sunscreen and covering clothes came in handy. A bright sun and cold wind provided the first challenge. We saw three whales doing their tricks, taking deep breaths and diving for a round of swimming buffet deep in the fjord. The moment a whale came up near the boat caused excitement for everyone.

The last cab ride took us to the Asbyrgi Valley. Here we set up our first camp. Since there was a campground, we had the luxury of a toilet block and picnic tables. After a first meal that burned a bit due to some clumsiness, there was still time for an evening walk. It hardly gets dark in early August, so even though it was late, it felt like the end of the afternoon. The evening hike up the cliff next to our camp took us delightfully into the fresh sea breeze. The wind was nice, as it blew away the many flies (My). The serene silence and the view from the rock totally made up for the fatigue of the trip.

The next morning, the backpacking began. Through a steep climb in the first kilometer, which immediately tested the group as a whole, we reached the trailhead. Along the edge of the valley, mythologized as a huge hoofprint, we walked our adventure. The view was beautiful and the terrain rocky. Among the plants and in the sun, it was warm and the mood was good. Every hour we had a short break for some food and drink. During the breaks, you can take in the beautiful scenery extra well. You also stay busy taking pictures: Iceland is so photogenic! It is almost impossible to take a boring or bad photo.

The canyon near the Dettifoss waterfall in Iceland

Variety on and off: a different landscape or terrain every day

Toward the end of the day, the terrain suddenly changed. This actually happened at least once every day. For me, this was something that made this trip extra special. We came to a deeply eroded river valley and along its flanks we covered the last few kilometers. The impressively shaped lava rock and ash hills gave us our first impression of the apocalyptic feeling Iceland can give you. The transition from tens of thousands to thousands of years of environment was obvious.

With one last bit between the bushes, we arrived at our camp field. Not a real campsite, but an official bivouac spot with toilet and running cold water. There was little wind among the tall bushes, which meant more My again. The My do not bite, but love to crawl into your eyes, ears and nose. So it was important to keep those covered whenever possible. Fortunately, the occasional breeze blew across the field during dinner, so we were less bothered. We ate dry meals both in the evening and in the morning. Cooking on a small stove has something primitive and homely at the same time, and that gives me and the group a sense of belonging.

After dinner it was washing up and going to bed nice and early. The heavy backpacks and many impressions made you feel positively tired, and lying in your tent for a long time was no punishment. The gentle rustle of the wind and the babble of a neighboring stream quickly lull you to sleep.

Light nights and vistas

It’s easy to wake up early when it’s already early light, or actually barely really getting dark. Nevertheless, we spent about 11 hours each night in our tents. It was chilly during the nights, which felt wonderful from your warm sleeping bag. At breakfast, tea and coffee were made every day, in addition to hot water for instant breakfast. With our backpacks neatly packed again and enough water for a day’s hiking, we set out for day two.

The route took us back to the river, which we followed upstream all day. The terrain next to the river rose faster than the river itself and we were presented with amazing vistas. The Jökulsárgljúfur Valley grew deeper and wider toward the end of the day, to Grand Canyon-worthy proportions.

What also became different toward the end of the day was the degree of overgrowth. Or rather, the lack of vegetation. Where at the beginning of the day we felt like we were in some kind of paradise with so much greenery and beautiful river courses, including one we crossed barefoot and even a climb along a waterfall, by the end of the day everything turned black. The last kilometers to the camp site we had to be careful not to cut our shoes and clothes on the sharp stones. You begin to wonder where you might pitch the tent….

Arriving at the camp site, the question was partially answered. There was more grit and sand than stones here, with sometimes even a tuft of grass. Finding the right spot for the tent amidst the rugged terrain provides a sense of accomplishment. We were able to put some of the stones aside and camp three was a reality. Water had been provided by the rangers at this spot via large water bottles and at the visitor center we could go to the restroom. Indeed, we had arrived at one of the sights of the Diamond Circle.

Off trail past powerful waterfalls, moss and stone deserts

After dinner we crossed the small hill next to the camp site and there, as if out of nowhere, was a huge parking lot. From the parking lot, even so at night, there was a continuous stream of people walking up and down to the Dettifoss. Europe’s most powerful waterfall made a cloud of water particles that could be seen from afar. Closer, the clamor was louder than you could talk. So the deep valley we had seen all day spontaneously stopped here and three huge waterfalls, with the Dettifoss as the central gem, dropped the water into the valley. It was an impressive sight.

The next morning we went off-trail, a route mapped out via GPS that was supposed to lead us straight west. The first few hours went through a stone desert where navigating proved difficult. After crossing the road, a green landscape lay before us. Green meant the return of the My and, as if that wasn’t challenging enough, difficult terrain. More than knee-deep holes were among the spherical lava rock, so you walked from tip to tip. With no regularity in your stride and with a heavy backpack, it was not easy.

We were walking down a ridge and closer to it there was more water and even a large lake. After a brief dip, we walked on to camp four. It was a shorter day and in a beautiful field with a cabin and a small river we took time to wash up. There were lots of flies in the cabin, but we were not bothered by them. They seemed to prefer going to the light by the window to bothering us. While enjoying this unexpected comfort, we ate and planned the last two days of the hike. Washing in the cold, fresh water of the little river gave me a renewed sense of energy and cleanliness.

New challenge; no more water from the land until the end of the trip

After leaving tomorrow, we would not be able to take water from the land until the end of the route. The water we would see sporadically was probably contaminated with sulfur and other substances emitted by the volcanoes. It gives an extra sense of adventure, because it does sound a little exciting. Therefore, we determined how much water we needed and divided it among ourselves. For me, that meant an extra six-liter water bag. All evening and morning we were busy filling these supplies, since we already had to use a filter here too.